A black and white photo of a man surfing a wave with the title The Wave Catcher"
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The Wave Catcher

How Hawaiian surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku helped bring surfing to the world

By Allison Friedman
From the May 2022 Issue

Learning Objective: to synthesize information from two nonfiction texts about surfing and write a speech

Lexile: 1000L
Other Key Skills: key ideas and details, cause and effect, text structure, interpreting text, text features, inference, figurative language

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AS YOU READ

Think about how surfing has changed over time.

The Wave Catcher

The amazing story of Hawaiian legend Duke Kahanamoku, who helped bring surfing to the world 

On a sunny August day in 1912, a throng of tourists crowded onto a seaside pier in Atlantic City, New Jersey. Everyone was watching the glittering ocean, waiting.

Down below, a man lay on a long wooden board, paddling through the water with his arms. Suddenly, a frothy wave began curling toward him, growing larger and larger. With a graceful hop, the man stood up. He glided along the crest of the hulking wave, balancing effortlessly as he rode toward the shore.

At first, the crowd was stunned into silence. Was he standing on water? 

Then the onlookers broke into thunderous applause. For most of them, this was their first encounter with the thrilling sport of surfing.

The surfer who dazzled the crowd that day was named Duke Kahanamoku. He was from Hawaii, the birthplace of surfing. And he was on a mission to bring his beloved sport to the rest of the world.

Keystone/Getty Images

Surfers perform stunts in Hawaii.

Part of Life

To the awestruck crowd in Atlantic City, surfing may have seemed new and exciting. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old.

Hawaii comprises a chain of islands in the Pacific Ocean, about 2,400 miles from the west coast of the continental United States. Picture paradise in your mind, and you’ll get an idea of what it’s like: lush tropical forests with plants and animals found nowhere else in the world, steep cliffs and towering volcanic peaks, deep valleys with long sandy shorelines. Sparkling turquoise waters stretch as far as the eye can see. 

Hawaii is one of the most remote places in the world, thousands of miles from any other land. This makes it perfect for surfing; there is nothing to stop waves from growing tall and powerful as they hurtle toward the islands’ beaches.

To ancient Hawaiians, surfing was known as he’e nalu, or wave riding. They told stories of powerful gods and goddesses who mastered the sea on their boards. Through the centuries, the sport was a favorite of chiefs and chiefesses, of kings and queens. It was also enjoyed by almost everyone on the islands—farmers and fishermen, kids and grandparents. When the surf came up, entire villages would go to the sea. Surfing was a ritual, with surfers riding the waves for their ancestors. And it was part of life, almost as essential as eating or sleeping. 

Outsiders Arrive

In 1778, a group of British sailors came across the islands by accident. Soon after, visitors began coming from Europe and the United States, hoping to make their fortunes off the islands’ natural riches. 

These outsiders were puzzled by surfing. They had never seen anything like it. And what were the surfers wearing? The newcomers saw the loincloths and sarongs the surfers wore as too revealing. In the late 1800s, to discourage the sport, the outsiders chopped up the Hawaiians’ lovingly crafted wooden surfboards and turned them into desks and chairs for schools. 

Meanwhile, America, Hawaii’s closest neighbor, was claiming more and more control over the islands. In 1893, Hawaii’s monarchy was overthrown. Surfing, hula dancing, and even the Hawaiian language were banned. And in 1898, the U.S. government officially annexed Hawaii as a territory. 

Overnight Celebrity

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Yet surfing did not die out. Born in 1890, Duke Kahanamoku grew up surfing after school at the beach near his house. He lived in Honolulu, Hawaii’s largest city. 

But it was as a swimmer, not a surfer, that Kahanamoku first caught the world’s attention. Dragging a 114-pound surfboard through the water had helped him develop a strong, fast stroke—fast enough to earn him a spot on the U.S. Olympic swim team. At the 1912 Summer Games in Stockholm, Sweden, Kahanamoku became the first Hawaiian athlete to win a medal in the Olympics. He won gold and silver medals for the United States, becoming a celebrity almost overnight.

He was invited to show off his aquatic skills at pools and beaches across the U.S. At a time when many people still could not point to Hawaii on a map, Kahanamoku became a kind of ambassador for his beautiful, faraway islands. He decided to use his newfound fame to bring the gift of surfing to America—which is how Kahanamoku ended up in Atlantic City later that summer, surfing in front of an astonished crowd. 

As he toured the country giving similar demonstrations, kids and teens were inspired to steal their moms’ ironing boards and try surfing for themselves. In the following years, the sport slowly gained prominence across the U.S.

Tony Heff/World Surf League via Getty Images 

Surfer Carissa Moore made headlines when she won gold at the Olympics in 2021.

Surfin' USA

Alpha Historica/Alamy Stock Photo

This photo was taken around 1912. Kahanamoku’s surfboard is made of wood.

By the late 1940s, surfing was exploding in popularity—especially in California, where miles of beaches offered up endless waves. New designs had made surfboards cheaper and easier to ride. Gone were the heavy, clunky wooden boards of Kahanamoku’s childhood. The new boards were sleek and made of light foam, with a fin underneath to help the surfer steer. This made surfing more accessible for beginners and opened up a whole new world of tricks for experts. Instead of just riding a wave straight to shore, a surfer could now zigzag nimbly in and out of its curves. 

But surfing wasn’t just a sport of skill. It had become a whole lifestyle. If you visited a California beach in the 1940s, you’d find sand-dusted surfers strumming ukuleles and goofing around between rides. To them, surfing was about letting your cares fade away, feeling harmony with the natural world—and above all, just having fun, dude. 

This laid-back lifestyle soon made its way into pop culture, spreading from California across the United States. At the movies, audiences fell in love with a teenage surfer girl named Gidget. A band called The Beach Boys crooned about the joys of “surfin’ USA.” 

By the end of the 1960s, even a kid living on a farm in Kansas—hundreds of miles from the ocean—would probably know what “hang ten” and “wipeout” meant. The whole country had gone surf-crazy.

Ryu Yamane and Andrew Tran

A 150-foot mural of Moore and Kahanamoku in Honolulu, Hawaii

Ambassador of Aloha

In 1959, as surfing was splashing across America, Hawaii became our 50th state. Kahanamoku, who was by then almost 70, was named the new state’s official Ambassador of Aloha. (Aloha is a Hawaiian word with many meanings, including “love” and “welcome.”) He greeted celebrities and world leaders who visited the islands, including President John F. Kennedy and the Queen Mother of England. (Kahanamoku taught Her Highness the traditional art of hula dancing.) Having brought a bit of Hawaii to the world, he spent the rest of his life welcoming the world to Hawaii.

Kahanamoku died in 1968, before getting to see one of his lifelong dreams come true: surfing as an Olympic sport. It wasn’t until the Summer Games in Tokyo this past summer that surfers competed for the first time. Carissa Moore, who was born and raised in Hawaii, won the gold medal for Team USA. 

As the father of modern surfing and one of Hawaii’s greatest champions, Duke Kahanamoku would no doubt have been proud. 

Monster Waves   

The quest for the biggest waves pushes surfers to extremes.

Octavio Passos/Getty Images

That’s big-wave surfer Maya Gabeira, in Nazaré, Portugal.

The wall of water appears out of nowhere. It’s as tall as a seven-story building and weighs 1,000 tons. Like a giant sheet of moving concrete, this wave could crush a human being like a bug. Most people would never dare get near such a dangerous wave. 

But right now, a surfer is heading straight toward it. She has spent months looking for a monster wave exactly like this one. She grips a rope attached to a Jet Ski, taking deep breaths as it pulls her closer and closer. She can’t hear anything but the violent churning of water. Her heart pounds and her body buzzes as she approaches the crest of the wave. 

She lets go of the rope.

And then—she’s flying.

Welcome to big-wave surfing.

Thrilling and Dangerous

Big-wave surfing is an extreme sport in which surfers attempt to ride waves that are 20 feet or taller. (The average wave is only about 11 feet, roughly the height of a basketball hoop.) In 2018, Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa earned the title for the biggest wave ever surfed, after riding a monstrous, 80-foot wave. 

Riding such giant waves is thrilling—and dangerous. Giant waves can rupture eardrums, crush bones, and rip arms out of sockets. They can pin surfers underwater and toss them around like rag dolls. When surfers emerge from one wave, they may have only seconds before the next wave crashes over them. 

Only the most experienced surfers attempt big waves—and they train hard for it. But training is only one of many challenges when it comes to big-wave surfing. Surfers must also be able to predict when and where conditions will be ideal for big waves to form. For that, they rely on advanced storm-tracking technology, satellite data, and weather alerts. 

Once a prediction is made, the news travels fast—through surfer blogs, email alerts, and word of mouth. Big-wave surfers must be ready at a moment’s notice to drop what they are doing, grab their boards, and hop on a plane. 

Biggest Waves on Earth

So how do big waves form? In general, waves form when wind blows on the surface of the ocean. The faster and longer the wind blows, the bigger the waves grow. 

Large waves are usually created by a strong storm far out at sea. But it takes more than a storm to make the biggest waves. The topography of the ocean floor is also key. The presence of underwater reefs, sandbanks, and canyons can all help create massive waves.

The biggest waves on Earth can be found off the coast of a small fishing town called Nazaré, in Portugal. Waves there can reach a staggering 100 feet, thanks to a large underwater canyon that extends from the shoreline out to the sea. 

When a wave from a storm rolls into Nazaré, it collides with the canyon, which causes the wave to bend in such a way that it grows even taller. Not surprisingly, it was in Nazaré that Koxa rode his record-breaking wave. 

Amazing Feat

Back in the ocean, our big-wave surfer speeds down the wave like an expert skier flying down a mountain. The wave crests over her, and suddenly she’s inside it, the water forming a turquoise cocoon. 

Eventually, she shoots out from the wave as it begins to collapse. Her Jet Skier, who has been waiting nearby, picks her up and tows her back to shore. 

Now she can relax and revel in her amazing feat. 

Until, of course, the next wave rolls in.

Writing Prompt

Write a speech to kick off a big-wave surfing competition held in Duke Kahanamoku’s honor. Highlight his contributions to surfing and explain what viewers can expect to see in the competition. 

This article was originally published in the May 2022 issue.

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Step-by-Step Lesson Plan

Close Reading, Critical Thinking, Skill Building

1. PREPARING TO READ (20 MINUTES)

2. READING AND DISCUSSING (45 MINUTES)

3. SKILL BUILDING AND WRITING (30 minutes)

Text-to-Speech