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Why Are These Chips Sooooooo Delicious?

Scientists know the secret to making packaged food taste great. But is all this yumminess bad for our health?

By Lauren Tarshis
From the May 2020 Issue
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They work in top secret laboratories. They are forbidden to speak of their experiments. Their discoveries can be worth millions of dollars.

Are these highly trained scientists developing a supercomputer? A cure for a disease? A weapon? Nope. Their creations are right in front of you—in that sweet, fizzy soda you’re sipping and those crunchy, salty chips you’re munching on.

These men and women are “flavorists,” scientists who devote their lives to making food taste delicious. And they are experts at concocting flavors you will love, whether a lip-smacking berry flavor for a sports drink or a mouthwatering chili-cheese coating for a pretzel. To work their magic, flavorists use thousands of chemicals, oils, extracts, and other substances to create artificial flavors. Even a seemingly simple flavor, like strawberry in a milkshake, might contain 50 ingredients.

Prized Treasures

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The modern flavor industry got its start in the 1950s, when American eating habits underwent a drastic shift. It used to be that if you wanted a cookie, you had to bake it yourself or take a trip to your corner bakery. If you wanted an apple, you had to grow it or buy it from someone who did.

Then a new technology came along that changed everything: processing. Food that has been processed has been frozen, canned, or treated with chemicals called preservatives that keep it fresh on store shelves. Americans loved the convenience of processed food. Unfortunately, processing kills flavor. The goal of the first flavorists was to make processed foods taste halfway as good as fresh.

Today, adding flavor to processed foods is still a major part of a flavorist’s job. And a big job it is: Nearly 60 percent of the foods we eat are highly processed.

But modern flavorists aren’t just working to make BBQ chips taste like BBQ or tomato sauce taste like tomatoes. They’re also inventing new flavors. They scour the globe for inspiration, bringing new tastes to America. (Ever tried chipotle flavored chips? They’re inspired by chipotle peppers from Mexico.) Perfecting a new flavor may take years, but if successful, it can bring in millions. No wonder flavor companies guard their formulas as prized treasures.

“Perfecting a new flavor may take years, but if successful, it can bring in millions.”

Slimy Pink Blob

So what makes a flavor a hit? Why do we love some flavors and curl our lips at others? To understand the answers, wander over to a mirror and stick out your tongue. That slimy pink blob is a sophisticated instrument, packed with flavor-sensing taste buds. Your 10,000 taste buds (which are on your cheeks as well as your tongue) can detect five flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami.

Our power to detect flavors is a critical survival tool. Thousands of years ago, when our ancestors were hunting and gathering food in the wild, a quick taste could determine if a food was edible or deadly. A bitter berry? It could kill you! That sour hunk of buffalo meat? Bleh! It’s rotten!

Our tongues, however, play only a small role in taste. Ever wonder why food tastes bland when you have a stuffy nose? It’s because your tongue is pretty much lost without your nose. The tongue can distinguish between something sweet and something bitter, but it’s the complex interplay between aroma and taste that tells your brain whether that delectable ice cream you’re eating is chocolate or vanilla.

Burst of Flavor

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If flavorists understand the intricacies of taste, then food companies understand which tastes translate into a best-selling product. Through their research, food companies have discovered that the most successful products “pop” in the mouth with bursts of different flavors that quickly fade, leaving the brain wanting more. They have also found that texture—the buttery softness of a cookie, the delightful ooze of cheese on a pizza—is key. In fact, food companies know how we prefer nearly everything, from how much crunch we want in our chips to how thick we like our donut glaze. All this data enables companies to make foods that are seriously scrumptious.

But is it possible that some foods are too delicious?

Many of the foods we love the most are the least healthy. Some experts believe companies deliberately create foods that are hard—indeed, nearly impossible—to resist. Studies have shown that certain textures combined with just the right flavors short-circuit our body’s system for signaling when we’re full. So we just keep eating and eating . . . and eating. This means more money for food companies and health problems for us.

Most food companies dismiss this criticism. They insist they’re just making foods that taste great. Isn’t it up to us to know when we’ve had enough?

Of course it is. This bag of chips we’ve been eating? We know we should put it away. We’ve eaten way too many chips already. But they’re so yummy!

Maybe we’ll have just a few more.

This article was originally published in the May 2020 issue.

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