Our Beautiful Town Is Gone

“This can’t be happening.”

That is what 9-year-old Eleanor Weddig was thinking as she sat in the car with her father. It was the morning of November 8, 2018, and Eleanor was caught in the middle of what would become the deadliest wildfire in the history of California. Across the town of Paradise, thousands of houses were in flames. Trees burned like giant torches. Ash rained from above. The morning sky was midnight dark.

“Am I dreaming?” Eleanor wondered. She pinched her leg, hard, trying to wake herself up.

But Eleanor wasn’t asleep.

The nightmarish scene in Paradise was all too real. Within hours, dozens of people would be dead. Nearly 14,000 houses would be burned to the ground. Schools, playgrounds, offices, businesses, the hospital—all would be destroyed.

Right now, Eleanor and her dad, Greg—and thousands of others—were trying to escape before it was too late.

“This can’t be happening.”

That is what 9-year-old Eleanor Weddig was thinking as she sat in the car with her dad. It was November 8, 2018, and Eleanor was caught in the middle of what would become the deadliest wildfire in California history. Across the town of Paradise, thousands of houses were in flames. Trees burned like giant torches. Ash rained from above. The morning sky was midnight dark.

“Am I dreaming?” Eleanor wondered. She pinched her leg, trying to wake herself up.

But she wasn’t asleep.

The nightmarish scene in Paradise was real. Within hours, dozens of people would be dead. Nearly 14,000 houses would be burned to the ground. Schools, playgrounds, offices, businesses, the hospital— all would be destroyed.

And right now, Eleanor and her dad, Greg, were trying to escape before it was too late.

For centuries, the region around Paradise was home to the Maidu tribe. The first white settlers arrived in the area about 170 years ago. In 1848, a lucky man had found gold in a mountain stream about 100 miles south of what is now Paradise. News of his discovery spread, and by 1849, tens of thousands of people—nicknamed the ’49ers—were rushing to California, their hearts filled with golden dreams. This movement of people became known as the California Gold Rush.

Few of the ’49ers actually struck it rich, but many stayed in California. They had fallen in love with the wilderness, with the feeling of wide-open possibility in the American West. They built new towns, places like Paradise.

Over the decades, Paradise grew into a large, bustling town. Kids like Eleanor grew up hiking through the area’s thick forests, fishing in the Feather River, and feasting on pancakes at Debbie’s Restaurant, a local favorite.

For centuries, the region around Paradise was home to the Maidu tribe. The first white settlers arrived in the area about 170 years ago. In 1848, a man had found gold in a mountain stream not far from what is now Paradise. News of his discovery spread. By 1849, tens of thousands of people— nicknamed the ’49ers—were rushing to California, their hearts filled with golden dreams. This movement of people became known as the California Gold Rush.

Few of the ’49ers struck it rich. But many stayed in California. They loved the wilderness, the feeling of wide-open possibility in the American West. They built new towns, places like Paradise.

Over time, Paradise grew into a large, bustling town. Kids like Eleanor grew up hiking through the area’s forests, fishing in the Feather River, and eating pancakes at Debbie’s Restaurant, a local favorite.

Early on the morning of November 8, Eleanor got dressed for school and ate her cereal. Down the road, her classmate Lucas Fisher woke up as his mom, Holly, opened the curtains in his room. Across town, Kevin McKay steered a large yellow school bus through the town’s narrow, tree-lined streets.

All seemed normal—except for the plume of smoke rising out of the forest in the distance.

Kevin spotted the smoke around 6:45 a.m., as he drove his first bus route of the morning. Lucas’s mom saw it too as she woke up Lucas for school.

Indeed, many people in town saw the smoke that morning—but few were very concerned. Fires are common in the forests around Paradise. Plus, this one seemed far away. 

Early on the morning of November 8, Eleanor got dressed for school and ate her cereal. Down the road, her classmate Lucas Fisher woke up as his mom, Holly, opened the curtains in his room. Across town, Kevin McKay steered a yellow school bus through the streets.

All seemed normal—except for the plume of smoke rising out of the forest in the distance.

Kevin saw the smoke around 6:45 a.m., as he drove his first bus route of the morning. Lucas’s mom saw it as she woke up Lucas for school.

Many people in town saw the smoke. But few were very concerned. Fires are common in the forests around Paradise. And this one seemed far away.

And it was far away. The growing fire was about 10 miles from Paradise, near the little town of Pulga. Experts now think that sparks from electrical lines ignited dry grass on a remote hillside. As happens with so many devastating California wildfires, the smoldering brush quickly turned into a raging wall of flame.

Around 6:50 a.m.—less than 20 minutes after the fire started— firefighters in Paradise mobilized to battle the blaze, which was swiftly moving toward the town. One of them was Josh Fisher, Lucas’s dad. Josh had spent more than 22 years fighting dangerous wildfires.

He stared at the growing cloud with alarm. “Man,” he thought, “this one could really do some damage.”

Wildfires have always been a fact of life in California. The state gets most of its rain during the winter and fall. During these wet months, trees and grasses grow. Then in the spring and summer, all that vegetation dries out in the sun—and becomes the perfect kindling for fire. Strong winds during these months spread fires quickly.

This fire cycle is actually a normal and important part of California’s ecosystems. Wildfires help forests stay healthy by clearing away dead branches and brush. Fire deposits nutrients in the soil, which helps new plants grow. These plants provide food for animals. Wildfires also open the pinecones of certain species of pine trees. This releases the seeds inside the cones so they can sprout into new trees.

But in recent years, California’s wildfires have become bigger, more destructive, and harder to fight. Many of California’s largest and deadliest fires have happened during the past decade. A major reason is climate change, scientists agree. The weather in California and around Earth has been getting hotter and less predictable. Globally, the past five years were the hottest on record. 

And it was far away. The growing fire was about 10 miles from Paradise, near the town of Pulga. Experts now think that sparks from electrical lines ignited dry grass on a hillside. As happens with so many devastating California wildfires, the smoldering brush quickly turned into a raging wall of flame.

Around 6:50 a.m.—less than 20 minutes after the fire started—firefighters in Paradise mobilized to battle the blaze, which was swiftly moving toward the town. One of them was Josh Fisher, Lucas’s dad. Josh had spent more than 22 years fighting dangerous wildfires.

He stared at the growing cloud with alarm. “Man,” he thought, “this one could really do some damage.”

Wildfires have always been a fact of life in California. The state gets most of its rain during the winter and fall. During these wet months, trees and grasses grow. Then in the spring and summer, all that vegetation dries out in the sun and becomes the perfect kindling for fire. Strong winds during these months spread fires quickly.

This fire cycle is actually a normal and important part of California’s ecosystems. Wildfires help forests stay healthy by clearing away dead branches and brush. Fire deposits nutrients in the soil, which helps new plants grow. These plants provide food for animals. Wildfires also open the pinecones of certain species of pine trees. This releases the seeds inside the cones so they can sprout into new trees.

But in recent years, California’s wildfires have become bigger, more destructive, and harder to fight. Many of California’s largest and deadliest fires have happened in the past decade. A major reason is climate change, scientists say. The weather in California and around Earth has been getting hotter and less predictable. (For more, see the “What to Know” box.) Globally, the past five years were the hottest on record.

Wildfires had threatened Paradise before. In 2008, about 10,000 people had to evacuate when a massive fire closed in on Paradise, but the town was spared when the fire stopped at the Feather River along the town’s border. The river had protected Paradise like a watery shield.

But as Josh Fisher sensed, the November 8 fire would be different. It moved with terrifying speed. Every second, it devoured a chunk of land the size of a football field. Even more dangerous, the powerful wind was picking up hunks of burning trees. Like flaming birds, they flew across the river, igniting more fires wherever they landed.

By 7:45 a.m., dozens of fires were burning in Paradise. And the main fire was closing in.

Josh called his wife and urged her to immediately drive herself, Lucas, and Lucas’s little sister, Sienna, to Chico, a small city 15 miles to the west. He then climbed onto a fire truck with two other firefighters.

Josh had risked his life fighting wildfires before. But nothing had prepared him for what he would face in the hours to come. 

Wildfires had threatened Paradise before. In 2008, about 10,000 people had to evacuate when a huge fire closed in on Paradise. But the town was spared when the fire stopped at the Feather River along the town’s border. The river had protected Paradise like a shield.

But as Josh Fisher sensed, the November 8 fire would be different. It moved extremely fast. Every second, it burned a chunk of land the size of a football field. Even worse, the wind was picking up hunks of burning trees. Like flaming birds, they flew across the river, igniting more fires wherever they landed.

By 7:45 a.m., dozens of fires were burning in Paradise. And the main fire was closing in. Josh called his wife. He urged her to drive herself, Lucas, and Lucas’s little sister, Sienna, to Chico, a small city 15 miles away. He then climbed onto a fire truck with two other firefighters.

Josh had risked his life fighting wildfires before. But nothing had prepared him for what he would face in the hours to come.

By 8:30 a.m., panic was spreading through Paradise, and thousands of people began to evacuate. Parents raced to schools to pick up their children, while kids whose parents couldn’t get to the schools were put on buses.

Kevin McKay left one of the schools with 22 children and 2 teachers on his bus. By then, the sky was black and fires were raging all around them.

“I thought to myself, ‘This could be it,’” he remembers.

The few main streets of Paradise quickly became jammed with traffic as residents attempted to flee. With each minute that passed, escaping by car became more difficult.

Lucas was lucky; he, his mom, and his sister made it to Chico before the roads became choked with cars.

Eleanor and her dad had driven to Eleanor’s school, but they quickly returned home and prepared to evacuate to Chico, where Eleanor’s mom, Nicole, was working. Her father grabbed the computer hard drive and the photo albums. Eleanor went into her bedroom.

“Dad told me to get my most beloved things,” she remembers. She wanted to bring all her stuffed animals, but there wasn’t enough room in the car—and time was running out. She chose the stuffed rabbit she’d had since she was a baby and a 3-D printed cat her best friend had given her.

By now, the streets were even more clogged. Some roads were completely blocked by burning tree limbs, electrical wires, and cars abandoned by terrified drivers.

As Eleanor and her dad inched along in their car, Kevin McKay’s bus was across town, also crawling through smoke, flames, and traffic. Kevin kept his mind clear as he passed burning houses and flaming trees. He tried not to think about how he and 2 teachers would keep 22 kids safe if they had to abandon the bus and flee on foot. Instead, he thought of his mom and his son, grateful they were safe in Chico. But would he ever see them again?

As the minutes ticked by, the people of Paradise were facing a horrifying truth: Their beautiful town would soon be gone. And with escape routes blocked, many were in a fight for their lives. 

Wildfires had threatened Paradise before. In 2008, about 10,000 people had to evacuate when a huge fire closed in on Paradise. But the town was spared when the fire stopped at the Feather River along the town’s border. The river had protected Paradise like a shield.

But as Josh Fisher sensed, the November 8 fire would be different. It moved extremely fast. Every second, it burned a chunk of land the size of a football field. Even worse, the wind was picking up hunks of burning trees. Like flaming birds, they flew across the river, igniting more fires wherever they landed.

By 7:45 a.m., dozens of fires were burning in Paradise. And the main fire was closing in. Josh called his wife. He urged her to drive herself, Lucas, and Lucas’s little sister, Sienna, to Chico, a small city 15 miles away. He then climbed onto a fire truck with two other firefighters.

Josh had risked his life fighting wildfires before. But nothing had prepared him for what he would face in the hours to come.

As the inferno swept across Paradise, hundreds of people took refuge in a supermarket parking lot that Josh Fisher and other firefighters were protecting. Josh stood on his truck, battling back the blaze with a powerful hose, dousing new fires as they erupted. People cried in their cars. The heat was unbearable, the smoke so thick it felt as though they were breathing fire itself.

The fight lasted for two grueling hours, until finally traffic cleared enough that firefighters could lead the drivers out of town. It was only then that Josh could call Holly to tell her and Lucas and Sienna that he was safe.

By that time, Eleanor and her dad had made it to Chico. Kevin McKay, after six harrowing hours, had delivered the students to a parking lot outside town. All 22 students were reunited with their families.

The fire, which became known as the Camp Fire, burned for 16 more days. Eighty-five people lost their lives. It would be nearly six weeks before people were allowed back into Paradise to see what remained of their homes. Most found only ash and ruin. 

As the inferno swept across Paradise, hundreds of people took refuge in a supermarket parking lot that Josh Fisher and other firefighters were protecting. Josh stood on his truck, battling back the blaze with a hose and dousing new fires as they started. People cried in their cars. The heat was unbearable. The smoke was so thick it felt like breathing fire itself.

The fight lasted two grueling hours, until traffic cleared enough that firefighters could lead the drivers out of town. It was only then that Josh could call Holly to tell her he was safe.

Eleanor and her dad made it to Chico. Kevin McKay, after six harrowing hours, delivered the students to a parking lot outside town. All 22 students were reunited with their families.

The fire, which became known as the Camp Fire, burned for 16 more days. Eighty-five people died. It would be nearly six weeks before people were allowed back into town to see what remained of their homes. Most found only ash and ruin.

In the 11 months since the Camp Fire, only a small number of people have returned to live in Paradise. Signs of the fire remain everywhere—houses burned to ash, empty stores, twisted metal, charred cars that look like giant fossils.

Like thousands of others, Eleanor’s family lost their home; they now live in a trailer in Chico. Kevin also lost his house. Though the Fishers’ house survived, they can’t move back yet because the town’s water system was poisoned by toxic smoke.

Still, life continues. Schools have been relocated to neighboring towns. There are field trips and birthday parties. Kevin McKay is still driving a school bus—and studying to become a history teacher. Lucas’s dad, Josh, continues to fight fires.

Nobody knows what the future will bring for Paradise. But many have discovered that the town’s strength didn’t come from the wood and bricks of the houses and buildings.

“It’s the people that make a town,” says Lucas’s mom, Holly. “We are resilient, and I’m certain we will rebuild a beautiful Paradise together.”

In the 11 months since the Camp Fire, only a small number of people have returned to live in Paradise. Signs of the fire remain everywhere: houses burned to ash, empty stores, twisted metal, charred cars that look like huge fossils.

Like thousands of others, Eleanor’s family lost their home. They now live in a trailer in Chico. Kevin lost his house too. The Fishers’ house survived, but they can’t move back yet because the town’s water system was poisoned by toxic smoke.

All the same, life continues. Schools have been relocated to nearby towns. There are field trips and birthday parties. Kevin McKay still drives a school bus, and he’s studying to become a teacher. Josh Fisher still fights fires.

No one knows what the future holds for Paradise. But many have discovered that the town’s strength did not come from the wood and bricks of the houses and buildings.

“It’s the people that make a town,” says Lucas’s mom, Holly. “We are resilient, and I’m certain we will rebuild a beautiful Paradise together."

This article was originally published in the October 2019 issue.

This article was originally published in the October 2019 issue.